Vermicomposting

Vermicomposting – Composting with Worms
Rebecca Bland – Washington County Public Schools, Maryland.

Vermicomposting is a way to amend soil using earthworms and microorganisms.to break down organic materials. There are various types of earthworms from which to choose; however, the best for this purpose is the red wiggler or Eisenia fetida.

Life Cycle of the Red Wiggler

The egg stage lasts for 6-7 weeks. Each cocoon contains 4-7 worms and looks like a miniature lemon drop. Before hatching, the cocoon turns from pale yellow to a maroon color. In the juvenile stage, which lasts about 2 months, the worms are not able to reproduce, but they can break down organic material. An orange ring, or clitella, near the anterior (head) end of the worm indicates it is a mature adult, capable of reproduction. As they are hermaphroditic (Uncle Jim’s Worm Farm, 2023), any two worms can join clitella to reproduce. Red wiggler worms can live up to 6 years (Uncle Jim’s Worm Farm, 2017).

Setting up a Vermicomposting Bin

Setting up a vermicomposting bin is simple. You will need:

• A large plastic tub
• A nail or other tool for making air holes in the tub
• A bag of peat moss
• Water (chlorinated water should sit out for 24 hours before using)
• Red wiggler worms (500-1000)
• Organic scraps (fruit and vegetable cores and peelings, eggshells, coffee grounds, etc.)

Kits can be purchased or made more economically by purchasing plastic storage bins with lids and drilling the holes, yourself. A few holes in the center of the lid and near the top of each long end of the tub will do.

There are vermicomposting systems that recommend that you drill drainage holes in the bottom of the tub and set it inside a tray, advising you to dump the nutrient-rich “compost tea” from the tray periodically on your garden. This is not necessary if you change the worms’ bedding every 4-6 months.

While some websites suggest using shredded paper, sawdust, etc., for bedding, peat moss is a universally popular material that works well. Topsoil creates a muddy mess.

Place 6-8 inches of peat moss in the bottom of the tub. Add enough water to make the peat moss slightly damp. Begin with two parts peat moss to one part water and adjust as needed. (Be patient, as it takes a good amount of stirring to incorporate the water into the peat moss.)

Bedding that is too wet is hard on the worms. Bedding that is too dry will dehydrate them.  It needs to be damp enough for the worms to get traction as they move through it using their setae (bristles on their bellies).

Bury organic scraps in your worm bin, being sure to keep them covered with the peat moss. This will eliminate odors and keep away flies.

If you will not be adding organic scraps on a regular basis, lay a piece of damp cardboard on top of the bedding. The worms will come up from time to time to snack on it and turn it into soil. Keep the worm bin in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Outdoor placement is not ideal, as temperature extremes are not good for the worms.

Cleaning the Worm Bin

You will know your worm bin bedding needs changed when it becomes too wet to easily cover the organic scraps you add. A worm bin that is in dire need of a bedding change will have an anaerobic odor that clings to your hands, and so you may want to wear disposable gloves for the process.

It takes 45 minutes to an hour to clean out a worm bin. You will need two 5-gallon buckets. Transfer the old bedding along with the worms into one of the 5-gallon buckets and rinse the worm bin. Add new peat moss and chlorine-free water to the worm bin. Bury some organic scraps in the peat moss.

Meanwhile, the worms in the bucket of old bedding will have worked their way to the bottom to escape the light. Take out the wet castings (nutrient-rich soil that the worms have excreted) from the top of the bucket, a layer at a time, and put it in the other 5-gallon bucket. These wet castings can be mixed with water for a fantastic natural fertilizer called “compost tea”. As you come across worms, drop them into the worm bin. They will work their own way into the soil. The closer you get to the bottom of the bucket, the more worms you will find. Don’t worry if a few worms get thrown into the castings bucket. They will make a new home in soil of the garden where the compost tea is poured. After you have transferred all the worms to their new bedding, replace the lid on your worm bin. Your worms will start their happy munching again in no time.

References

EPA. (2016, October 11). How to create and maintain an indoor worm composting bin.  https://19january2017snapshot.epa.gov/recycle/how-create-and-maintain-indoor-worm-composting-bin_.html

Uncle Jim’s Worm Farm. (2023, February 24). The anatomy of a red wiggler composting worm – Eisenia fetida.https://unclejimswormfarm.com/anatomy-red-wiggler-composting-worm/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwko21BhAPEiwAwfaQCAqRk5RO2cTRz1EKO4D9ci83d1DuhVWssYldRvD0OcqxRlc9sMW5SxoCM5UQAvD_BwE

Uncle Jim’s Worm Farm. (2017, February 17). Red wiggler worms’ life cycle and stages.https://unclejimswormfarm.com/red-wiggler-worms-life-cycle-stages/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwko21BhAPEiwAwfaQCHA4IH6a42nim7Nf87RLHqkXdtfcm32WUdzLwLQBGeS-W5jCGZAkUhoCh4cQAvD_BwE